How to Replace a Car Radio Power Antenna

Curtosy of: DISCOUNTAUTOANTENNAS.COM
PLEASE READ ALL OF THE INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE YOU BEGIN. The photo below will show you the parts of your new antenna, please familiarize yourself with the parts as you review these instructions.
Please examine your existing antenna and note the order in which the pieces are put together before you begin unscrewing the parts, as you begin to take apart the pieces you may want to make a written note of the order and in which order the part is placed on the mast (which side is considered up or down, etc. Some order of the parts are listed below.) Notice on the bottom of your antenna there are two stud ports for mounting (screws/washers are included); this is where the metal support strap would be attached to either one of the stud ports (more about that later), and in the middle of the two stud ports is an extended port hole; this is where you would attach a drain tube if you are mounting inside a trunk or other enclosed location (more about that later).

Video: (Written permission granted). In some cases, you may need to remove your radio from the dash to reach the port for the antenna plug, this link will show you a short demo of how to do that, the ORANGE cable in the video is the radio antenna wire:
http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-09OP4nCXdJR/learningcenter/car/car_stereo/installation_video.html?movie=receiverinstall&format=mov

PLEASE NOTE THAT ALL AFTERMARKET ANTENNA'S REQUIRE TWO WIRES TO BE SPLICED AS INSTRUCTED BELOW.

Assuming you are replacing an existing power antenna, you will use the same location and the existing hole (this should be 1-inch in the mounting location usually under one of the fenders.) It is important to note how much room you have to install your new antenna, most must be a minimum of 11-1/2" of space below the mounting surface for this antenna.

The power antenna can be mounted with the included 0-30 degree mounting head or you might be able to use the antenna mount that is already on your vehicle and/or the existing rubber gasket.

IMPORTANT: If the mounting location is in the trunk or enclosed location be sure to use the existing drain tube that is attached to your old antenna to the bottom middle port hole of your new antenna, if you are relocating your antenna to the trunk or other enclosed location you will need to purchase a drain tube from any local auto supply store (nominal fee). NOTE: Some imports and many VW, Nissan and 1988-up GM vehicles may require an

As previously stated, your new after market power antenna does not plug into your existing wiring; therefore, TWO wires must be spliced to connect to your new antenna. To connect the wires you will need a 12-Volt Meter to identify the constant 12-volt wire and the radio 12-volt wire which provides the current when you turn your radio off/on. (See wiring instructions below.)

MOUNTING TIPS: After removal of your current antenna, be sure and clean the top/bottom of the mounting surfaces prior to mounting the new antenna. You might be able to utilize your existing antenna mount (ORIGINAL OUTSIDE TRIM PIECE, THE ANGLE FERAL AND NUT) in place of the 0-30 degree head and nut that is included with your new antenna and the existing rubber gasket. This can make the look cleaner on the outside fit.

You must first BEGIN by fitting your outside trim (this is so that you will know exactly where to mount it underneath) and fasten the outside nut. What shows outside your vehicle surface in this order is: Soft round plastic gasket sits on top of vehicle surface, then on top of that is the black plastic cap=make sure the lip that comes down on one side of this cap is fitted inside one of the sides of the metal fitting that is shaped like a boat which is directly beneath your vehicle surface, otherwise you will not be able to tighten the Chrome Nut-it will just keep turning and never tighten), then on top of that is the Chrome Cap, then on top of that is the Chrome Nut. Everything else is under the vehicle surface. The boat shaped fitting should have the jagged little teeth facing down and the teeth sit inside the small collar shaped fitting so that the collar comes up around the teeth.

At the bottom of the antenna you will see two mounting studs as discussed earlier, if possible use your original lower bracket by bolting it to the base of the power unit into the mounting studs (using the enclosed screws) or you may need to relocate the antenna to a higher or lower position underneath your vehicle and in this case you can mount the enclosed metal support strap (flat bar with holes) to it to a secure place on your vehicle body so that the lower assembly unit is secure. (The metal support strap is meant to be bent into an L shape so that the lower part is screwed onto the vehicle fender and the top part is to be screwed onto the base of the antenna.)

Screws/washer attach in this order through the metal support strap: for the top part of support strap that is screwed onto the base of antenna; first slide on the flat washer, then lock washer, then larger screw. The smaller screw is to be used directly on the vehicle wall mount, this screw can also be used for the ground wire=the thin short black wire on antenna; this wire would be sandwiched between the metal strap and the small screw.

WIRING INSTRUCTIONS TIPS - CONNECT THE CABLE: When routing the cables from the antenna to the radio try to route the coaxial antenna cable in the same place the old power antenna coaxial cable was routed, this should be away from all power cables and if possible avoid routing into the engine compartment as the engine noise could be transmitted into the antenna wiring causing interference. Also avoid routing the cables over sharp edges or near moving parts or near areas of high heat. TRIED & TRUE TRICK: After unplugging your existing antenna cable, tie a length of string to the end of the cable, then as you pull the cable out of the vehicle, this string will feed through the same cable path as your old antenna. Once you've pulled your existing cable all the way out, reattach the string to the end of the new antenna cable and feed the new cable through by pulling the string back into the vehicle (this may require someone to help you guide the string as you hold the cable.)

Connect the antenna's black coaxial cable to the antenna jack on your radio. (If your radio has an antenna trimmer control adjust it following the instructions in the radio's owner manual).

IMPORTANT: Be sure that your vehicle has a 12-volt negative-ground electrical system BEFORE you make any connections; you are going to connect the THIN SHORT BLACK ground wire to the metal frame of your vehicle in the same place the old antenna was connected. NOTE: Parts of your vehicle may be made of plastic a?? be sure that the black wire is not grounded to a plastic part. Then you are going to connect (in this example) the RED power wire with the in-line fuse holder to the vehicle battery's positive (+) terminal OR to a terminal on the fuse box that is a constant source of power. You can use electrical tape to connect the red wire to the battery cable, then connect the GREEN wire to the switched power wire on your radio. Some radio's with this wire is orange. See below for a step by step recap of the wiring.

WIRING STEPS:
1. Splice the RED power antenna wire with the wire on your vehicle that has a constant 12-volt current.

2. Splice the GREEN power antenna wire with the wire on your vehicle that produces the current when the radio is turned off/on.

3. Attach the THIN SHORT BLACK power antenna wire to an exposed metal section on the fender, this is the ground wire.

4. Connect the LONG THICK BLACK power antenna coaxial CABLE to the existing antenna cable jack that was unp

CLEANING YOUR ANTENNA MAST: DO NOT EVER USE WD40, OIL OR GREASE TO CLEAN YOUR ANTENNA as this will cause it to get stuck....a clean damp cloth is sufficient. If after regularly cleaning your mast with a damp cloth, you are experiencing the mast hesitating when going in the up or down position, you can apply a silicone lubricant spray: PROCEED WITH CAUTION AS FOLLOWS; spray the silicone lubricant onto a cloth away from your vehicle, turn on your radio so that your mast is in the "up" position, then wipe your antenna mast with the cloth and turn your radio on/off a few times.

TROUBLESHOOTING: Occasionally there is a problem and here are a few things to consider in solving most common problems:

#1: IF YOU HAVE NO POWER, FIRST, CHECK TO MAKE SURE THE NEW POWER ANTENNA IS GROUNDED CORRECTLY a?? CONNECTING THE SHORT BLACK WIRE TO SOMETHING ON THE VEHICLE THAT HAS A GOOD CONTACT WITH METAL, A NUT/SCREW IS A GOOD EXAMPLE a?? SOME PARTS OF YOUR VEHICLE MAY LOOK LIKE METAL BUT ARE NOT.

If you are sure you have the wire grounded properly, the next step is the BATTERY TEST: YOU CAN TEST THE ANTENNA ON YOUR VEHICLE BATTERY TO MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT HAVE A DEFECTIVE ANTENNA AND/OR TO CONFIRM THAT YOU HAVE PROPERLY WIRED THE ANTENNA: VERY IMPORTANT: When you conduct this test the antenna mast will rise, DO NOT let it rise to far or it will pop out, you can avoid this by first tightening the top ring down before hooking the wires up to the battery. Then follow these instructions:
CONNECT THE BLACK WIRE TO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL ON THE VEHICLE BATTERY, THEN CONNECT THE RED AND THEN THE GREEN WIRE TO THE POSITIVE TERMINAL ON THE VEHICLE BATTERY. IF IT PERFORMS, THEN YOU NEED TO REVIEW YOUR WIRING. IF NOT,...see #2.

#2: WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THE WIRES vs. HOW TO HOOK IT UP: This power antenna has the circuitry to control the basis machine function as follows: What the wires do: The lead that is to conditional power makes the antenna go up and the lead that is connected to constant power makes the antenna go down when the conditional power is interrupted. (This way you understand that you are not concerned about the existing relay and other little devices that are connected to the original antenna motor.)

GENERAL SET UP COMMENTS: Place the hot and conditional power lead on the negative and the ground on the positive = antenna should go up and down. Then, put just the always hot lead and the ground and it should go down. See below.

CONDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS: IF you have an existing POWER ANTENNA, you will likely have the two power leads (always hot and conditional hot=only when radio is ON or car is ON) already serving the current power antenna. The assembly in the new antenna has the logic in the controller and you simply need to find the two power leads. (Other items=relays/electronic assemblies that are between the wiring harness and the antenna motor are now likely not necessary. a?? However, hang on to these as you may sometime in the future install an original equipment type antenna motor.)

If you have a FIXED ANTENNA, you will need to find the always hot power and a lead that is hot only when the radio is turned on, or if this cannot be found, a lead that is hot only when the car is turned on.


#3: CONSIDER THAT CERTAIN VEHICLES (like a Toyota 4RUNNER) HAVE A RELAY SWITCH BUILT INTO THE VEHICLE AND YOU WILL NEED TO LOCATE THAT AND BYPASS THE RELAY (BLACK BOX) ON THE NEW POWER ANTENNA OR CONSIDER REWIRING THE NEW ANTENNA TO THE RADIO AND BATTERY. To do this, cut the 3 wires leading to the black box on your new antenna and wire these directly to your vehicle, remember to ground one to a metal part of the body of the fender as described earlier, the second one will be the radio on/mast up wire and the third one is the radio off/mast down wire. Be sure to check your car's wiring by testing which wires produce the power up and power down with a volt meter OR you might want to consider #3 next.

#4: The 2 wires described in #3 (mast up/mast down wires) may be registering 100ma of 12VDC output. This is NOT enough to drive the relay and it is not enough to trip the internal relay on the power antenna. You may need what is called a Low Voltage Trigger (LVT): An LVT is usually used to turn on AMPLIFIERS or other accessories from LOW VOLTAGE outputs (like FORD RADIOS, etc.) and it gives a 12VDC STRONG output (enough to drive the relay from a low voltage source). Sometimes there are two outputs that are both low voltage (like in a LEXUS LS400); the original power antenna raises/lowers the power antenna about 1/4" EXTRA in the AM mode but retracts it just a little in the FM mode.

#5. NOISE - Occasionally you may hear a grinding noise when the antenna retracts or rises, if so, the antenna needs to be raised/lowered about 30 times, you will need to turn your radio on and wait at least 15 seconds and then turn your radio back off and wait at least 15 seconds. Once your antenna has been used over and over again the noise will subside and disappear. Also you can try the silicone lubricant spray mentioned above sometimes they need to be lubricated from when installed.

If the noise persists after following the above steps you may have a defective antenna.
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